Travel 5 - South East Asia (Bangladesh)

The 1:00 AM arrival, from China, at Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport in Dhaka, Bangladesh, was my worst airport experience ever.  Travel agencies indicate accurately that one can obtain a Visa on Arrival at the airport, but nothing is said about the inability to obtain Bangladesh taka at any currency exchange outside the country.  Therefore, at 1:00 AM, the main currency exchange point is closed ... and, thus, the great ‘red tape’ odyssey began.

More than one hour later, I exited Immigration control, found my suitcase, and walked outside to be greeted by a huge number of aggressive taxi hustlers, not to mention the residual humidity and high temperature.  Eventually, I met the driver sent to take me to the foreign teachers residence ... another 45 minutes.

Arriving at the residence, I was met by a tall, muscular, bare-chested, eunuch-looking porter, who carried my heavy suitcase up three flights of stairs.  The apartment had two en-suite bedrooms, occupied by two nursing teachers, and one spare room for me.  Thus, my outside bathroom contained a ‘squat’ toilet and a cold bucket shower.  I just ‘crashed’ onto the bed for the remainder of the morning.

Next day, although having been advised to rest, I walked to the campus of the International University of Business, Agriculture and Technology (A fifteen-minute walk).  Rickshaws were available, but I was still trying to come to terms with the value of the taka (It seems that the rickshaw ride would cost approximately 20 cents Canadian).

Hey, taxi!

Then, I was met by the senior foreign teacher, the head of a Canadian-sponsored nursing faculty, who knew nothing about my terms of employment.

Eventually, I was introduced to the Vice-Chancellor, who explained that, although there was an English language faculty of 16 professors, there was not a specific English language programme.  He wanted to create a BA (Honors) programme as soon as possible but, at the moment, English was taught as a minor subject.  My task was to audit the English classes, both students and teachers, and produce a report providing advice for improving the teaching.

Excellent Students

The audit of English language classes concentrated on the teaching of oral English and, although there were instances when regular classes concentrated on the teaching of reading and writing, it was possible to observe teaching styles.  Readability of PowerPoint presentations was particularly interesting.

University Tagore Celebration

During this period, the university celebrated the anniversary of Rabindranath Tagore, a writer, poet, and composer, who won the first Nobel Prize for Literature for a non-European in 1913.  I was introduced as the guest of honor ... and it was.

Tagore Celebration Student Participants

I finished my report four weeks later and, although requested (invited) to stay and teach for the remaining four weeks, I found that the negative conditions found in my report were very difficult to overcome within the short period remaining.  Therefore, I did not hesitate to accept an invitation to move downtown to my friend’s apartment ... with its modern conveniences.

Relocating to the relatively modern down town area, nevertheless, had its drawbacks.  Although 90% of the population are Muslim, according to the Constitution it is a secular country, and it is not hard to imagine a mosque on (almost) every city block.  Normally, I could live with that, but this is the 21st century and the imams have discovered electronics (Loudspeakers).  Now, I could live with that too, if the range of sound from each mosque did not overlap, but they do and the sound of calls to prayer is similar to the echos of the Grand Canyon.  Of course, there will be at least one reader who will chide me for being critical of the traditions of another country.  Nevertheless, the reverberating sound of the calls outside one's bedroom window every (every) morning starting at 5:00 AM ... is extremely irritating.

Incidentally, another aspect of Bangladeshi life that will never be forgotten, is the low value of human life.  Every time I picked up a daily newspaper, I was astonished by the number of murders that were taking place every day (Every day).  There are two categories;  firstly the group attacks on males resulting from some petty street argument and, secondly, the 'honor' killings of females, more often than not, housemaids.  Then, only if reported, do the police become involved, but only to document the incident (Rarely is there a report of a conviction).  It is difficult not to mention religion in this context.

During my stay, my friend was required to attend a conference in Bangkok.  And as the hotel, etc., was paid for, it seemed natural that I should accompany her (Probably explained in part Travel 6).

Quotation - "I have wandered all my life .... "

Hilaire Belloc

"I have wandered all my life, and I have travelled;  the difference between the two being this, that we wander for distraction, but we travel for fulfillment."

Travel 4 - South East Asia (China)

Recently, I returned from a very long visit to South East Asia, specifically, China, Bangladesh, and Thailand.  Here, I shall write about the Chinese part.

After a very tiring 3-day series of flights from London (Ontario) via Los Angeles, and Hong Kong, to Kunming (Yunnan Province) I signed in to a comfortable youth hotel.

Headquarters of the Kuomintang before
they fled to Formosa (Taiwan) in 1945

Long May Youth Hotel, Kunming

Initially, I was met at the airport by a helpful old friend who thought that because it was only the afternoon, he should drive me around town to meet people ... after my sleepless time traveling across the ocean, that was the last thing that I needed, but it would have seemed very rude to explain.  Actually, once I was back at the hotel, it was evening and my tiredness had disappeared, so I took an evening stroll around Green Lake Park and my favorite Yunnan University campus.  Suddenly, it felt as if I had only been away for three weeks rather than the actual three years.

Cui Hu (Green Lake) Park

Unfortunately, most of my ex-students were unavailable for me to meet due to there being no means of communication put in place, but a few wonderful friends made contact.  Nevertheless, I was at a loss most of the time due to my very poor grasp of the Chinese language.

Car drivers were still dangerous ... they seem to adopt Buddhist practices, that is;  We have no wish to hurt you, and if we do, there is always the next peaceful life.

My visit coincided with a May Day parade.  It was extremely interesting because of an extraordinary number of minority groups in their colorful ethnic costumes, not to mention a noteworthy number of gays.

Yuan Tong Temple, Kunming

Later, my very good friend, Li Hua (Robert) invited me to join his family on a long drive to Fu Xian lake, the second deepest freshwater lake in China.  But I was disappointed to learn that the Chinese navy uses it for submarine experiments, and there are huge tourist resorts being built everywhere around it ... obviously without sufficient sewage controls.

After a few weeks, I was pleased to be able to fly to Dhaka, Bangladesh (The originally intended destination) meet my favorite ex-student, and begin work auditing the language faculty of a private university (To be explained in Part 2).

Quotation - "Education is an admirable thing ..."

Oscar Wilde

"Education is an admirable thing.  

But it is well to remember from time to time that nothing that is worth knowing can be taught."

Education 3 - Volunteer Teaching

I was recently introduced to a university in Bangladesh that was in need of a volunteer English language teacher.  But, after sending my resume, the reply stated that a PhD. was required, although a MA. English or MEd. with a TEFL certification, would be acceptable.

Naturally, I was very surprised, because in essence, additionally, they were saying that besides the academic qualifications, I would be required to pay my own travel costs (without reimbursement) and accept no salary.  If I were sarcastic, I would say that there must be hundreds of doctoral professors just queuing up to fill this post.

I feel it necessary to amplify my reason for surprise with a couple of examples.  I have devoted my life to an aerospace-related career, culminating in the writing of a user guidebook that, today, resides in the library onboard the International Space Station ... and a PhD. was not required to do that.  Recently, I returned from spending many productive years in China, successfully teaching English students from junior to postgraduate levels ... and a PhD. was not required to do that.  Maybe I should add, that I judge my teaching success from the number of Chinese students who still write to me asking me about a return visit.

Concerned about this, I searched the Internet for similar opportunities, and discovered to my additional surprise that, previously, I was simply experiencing the tip of an iceberg.  It seems, generally, in order to volunteer for posts overseas one must associate with one of the many NGO’s in this business.  These NGO’s, although accepting of my lowly BA. degree, not only require that one pays for the airfare, but also  between $500 and $1,500 per month for the “privilege” (actual quote) of teaching at the colleges.  No doubt, it must be a privilege to live and work in a country with a 5-month monsoon season, a mosquito-infested environment, deep mud for roads, no safe drinking water, and electricity blackouts every day.  I suggest that there should be a serious investigation of the definition for the term ‘non-profit’.

I guess that there is nothing like the feeling of a teacher scorned.

Postscript - Since writing the above, I have been invited as a Visiting Fellow to another university in Bangladesh, in May, with more suitable conditions.  You may expect to read a blog with exciting details in the autumn of this year.