Sunday 5 August 2012

Travel 5 - South East Asia (Bangladesh)


The 1:00 AM arrival, from China, at Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport in Dhaka, Bangladesh, was my worst airport experience ever.  Travel agencies indicate accurately that one can obtain a Visa on Arrival at the airport, but nothing is said about the inability to obtain Bangladesh taka at any currency exchange outside the country.  Therefore, at 1:00 AM, the main currency exchange point is closed ... and, thus, the great ‘red tape’ odyssey began.

More than one hour later, I exited Immigration control, found my suitcase, and walked outside to be greeted by a huge number of aggressive taxi hustlers, not to mention the residual humidity and high temperature.  Eventually, I met the driver sent to take me to the foreign teachers residence ... another 45 minutes.

Arriving at the residence, I was met by a tall, muscular, bare-chested, eunuch-looking porter, who carried my heavy suitcase up three flights of stairs.  The apartment had two en-suite bedrooms, occupied by two nursing teachers, and one spare room for me.  Thus, my outside bathroom contained a ‘squat’ toilet and a cold bucket shower.  I just ‘crashed’ onto the bed for the remainder of the morning.

Next day, although having been advised to rest, I walked to the campus of the International University of Business, Agriculture and Technology (A fifteen-minute walk).  Rickshaws were available, but I was still trying to come to terms with the value of the taka (It seems that the rickshaw ride would cost approximately 20 cents Canadian).


Hey, taxi!

Then, I was met by the senior foreign teacher, the head of a Canadian-sponsored nursing faculty, who knew nothing about my terms of employment.

Eventually, I was introduced to the Vice-Chancellor, who explained that, although there was an English language faculty of 16 professors, there was not a specific English language programme.  He wanted to create a BA (Honors) programme as soon as possible but, at the moment, English was taught as a minor subject.  My task was to audit the English classes, both students and teachers, and produce a report providing advice for improving the teaching.


Excellent Students

The audit of English language classes concentrated on the teaching of oral English and, although there were instances when regular classes concentrated on the teaching of reading and writing, it was possible to observe teaching styles.  Readability of PowerPoint presentations was particularly interesting.


University Tagore Celebration

During this period, the university celebrated the anniversary of Rabindranath Tagore, a writer, poet, and composer, who won the first Nobel Prize for Literature for a non-European in 1913.  I was introduced as the guest of honor ... and it was.


Tagore Celebration Student Participants

I finished my report four weeks later and, although requested (invited) to stay and teach for the remaining four weeks, I found that the negative conditions found in my report were very difficult to overcome within the short period remaining.  Therefore, I did not hesitate to accept an invitation to move downtown to my friend’s apartment ... with its modern conveniences.

Relocating to the relatively modern down town area, nevertheless, had its drawbacks.  Although 90% of the population are Muslim, according to the Constitution it is a secular country, and it is not hard to imagine a mosque on (almost) every city block.  Normally, I could live with that, but this is the 21st century and the imams have discovered electronics (Loudspeakers).  Now, I could live with that too, if the range of sound from each mosque did not overlap, but they do and the sound of calls to prayer is similar to the echos of the Grand Canyon.  Of course, there will be at least one reader who will chide me for being critical of the traditions of another country.  Nevertheless, the reverberating sound of the calls outside one's bedroom window every (every) morning starting at 5:00 AM ... is extremely irritating.


Incidentally, another aspect of Bangladeshi life that will never be forgotten, is the low value of human life.  Every time I picked up a daily newspaper, I was astonished by the number of murders that were taking place every day (Every day).  There are two categories;  firstly the group attacks on males resulting from some petty street argument and, secondly, the 'honor' killings of females, more often than not, housemaids.  Then, only if reported, do the police become involved, but only to document the incident (Rarely is there a report of a conviction).  It is difficult not to mention religion in this context.

During my stay, my friend was required to attend a conference in Bangkok.  And as the hotel, etc., was paid for, it seemed natural that I should accompany her (Probably explained in part Travel 6).


6 comments:

  1. Do they still refer to visitors as Sahib or is that a myth from the time of the Raj?
    The ladies wear colouful costumes. You didn't mention the food but highlighted the other end of the nourishment process. A missed opportunity Bernie.
    I'm looking forward to reading more and seeing pictures.

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  2. I don't remember many people being called Sahib (Not only used for visitors). The title Sir was usually the order of the day. Occasionally, one may hear "Doctor Sahib" or "Teacher Sahib".

    Yes, it was interesting to notice the expensive clothing of the ladies — silks interwoven with gold and silver threads, while the male students simply wore shirts and jeans, especially in a country with extreme poverty (Probably paid for by parents hoping for a prosperous marriage partner). Incidentally, many students from poor rural areas, perhaps 25% of the student body, received full scholarships.

    It took a while to link your faint reference of the "nourishment process" to 'squat' toilets. The resident cook at the foreign teachers apartment seemed to be unable to cook anything but chicken curry and rice, with a mango dessert (Mangos are the staple fruit of Bangladesh). Of course, as with alcohol, pork is unavailable. But there are some excellent restaurants downtown ... with North American prices.

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  3. Parts 1, 2, and 3 are missing . . . this is a joke I presume? Bangkok must have been exciting . . .

    Bangladesh doesn't sound much different from much of India, which can be irritating, so irritating that I would buy a plane ticket to get out. Then it would be so seductive that I would cancel the flight. Just couldn't seem to leave.

    Incidentally, those saris? In defence of women, teachers are required to wear them if they teach at colleges. I have a friend who taught in India and hated it because she likes salwaar kameez's better. Saris are inconvenient.

    Even the poorest Muslim men are obligated to buy their wives and female children one sari every year and one pair of sandals. Depending on her age, a woman will have a stock of them. I read that, on average, women have about 80 saris. They rarely wear out. A really good silk sari (without any gold or silver) will cost $200, but most of the metallic thread-ware that you see costs somewhere around $20 (of course in rupees that is much more.) Saris threaded with real gold and silver, I have seen them in Mumbai, the movie capital, cost upwards of $10,000. You don't see these on the street, ever. Also, the gold jewelry? These are investments kept in the family for centuries.

    Much that appears to be silk is actually polyester. Asians imitate silk so well that you have to use the match trick at a vendors so you will not be cheated (burning polyester creates a plastic residue and silk becomes ashes). No matter how cheap, the clothes are gorgeous; I envy these women.

    Nancy

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    1. Patience, Nancy ... patience. I just dislike three-foot long blogs.

      Of course, in a way, Bangladesh is India. It is, in fact, surrounded by India. And I must return one day.

      Yes, all members of faculty must wear formal clothes. The lobby of the university that I attended had a large amusing poster on the wall that described the sequences for tying a man's necktie. For obvious reasons, it was not mandatory for all students to wear a tie.

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    2. I notice that you are wearing bow ties. Do you tie them yourself? And why bow ties?

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    3. When not wearing a jacket, the bow tie is much more practical.

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